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  • 更識人間有真味

    高中組 何可佳

     

    我想起多年前在北京吃的烤鴨,現在烤鴨全國都有,但其發祥地北京的還是不同。當時是夏天,我又不愛吃葷食,總覺得其油膩膩的,但這鴨子處理的很妙,皮脆而香、肉嫩而甜,伙計拿著刀,將鴨子片成一片一片的,薄厚均勻、油色誘人,用手一捋,整齊地碼在白瓷盤上,艷色誘人、香氣撲鼻。

    我不了解、也不講究吃法,更不喜歡蘸醬食肉。就用面皮包著,也不夾蔥蒜,只有純粹的面皮勁道,溫軟又不乏柔韌地包裹著油脂與纖維。

    肉食代表著能量,但這種能量的攝入是有溫度的,對于靈魂及內心,有一種撫慰的功效。

    夏天還有酸梅湯可供消暑,每每聽到酸梅湯的名字,我都饞得不行,大約有望梅止渴之意。但我所嘗過的酸梅湯,大多味道不正,清湯寡水混著白砂糖,色素調出來的顏色、香精混出來的香味,濃郁得很虛假。

    好喝的湯,甜蜜是其次,首先要濃、入口要涼,才不辜負這讓人范饞的名字。

    我自己在家中做過果醬,把西瓜放在鍋里煮,加檸檬汁、白糖。諸味原料味道都美,我覺得果醬也一定不差,但做出來才覺得油煙氣太重,反而有損于天然之鮮美,最后棄之不用,甚覺可惜。

    而夏天街上所賣果茶,即便好喝,喝幾口也覺得味道太淡、果味不夠,只記得里面的糯米仁很好吃,香甜黏膩、口齒留香,后來買它,也只是為了這少許幾粒糯米了。

    我幼年時,平時吃的大多平常,只有年節,才格外不同。對于幼時的我來說,似乎就格外偏愛糯米和豆皮所做的食物,過年的時候這類吃食尤其多:羼丸子、年糕、生腐、馓子……諸如此類。有一種我特別喜歡,是用豆皮包糯米團,糯米團里放精肉香菇筍丁荸薺,都切的碎碎的混在糯米里,然后在蒸籠里蒸熟,只要聞一聞香味,心里就無限滿足。蒸好了以后不僅可以直接吃,也可以放進火鍋里、或者燉湯,前者味道濃郁、后者更添清香、滋味綿長。但不論是什么食物,我都喜歡簡單來吃,剛蒸好的時候熱乎乎的最好吃不過了:外皮沒什么味道,但有豆類的淡淡清香,里面的餡料只加了鹽,但因為香菇筍丁增鮮,所以不覺寡淡,只覺得起初細嫩黏牙,再一咬荸薺香脆、筍丁鮮爽,一道菜已足以撐起年節的美味。

    過年的時候不能少餃子,我喜歡薺菜蝦仁餡或是韭菜、芹菜做餡,但其中最鮮美首推薺菜蝦仁餡,這是只有自己在家才能享受的奢侈——鮮蝦剝殼,用不著剁成蝦泥,一個餃子包一整顆才有纖維嚼勁之美。蝦肉很難有人不喜歡,比雞鴨肉更多鮮甜,比牛羊肉更多清新。薺菜也是鮮物,再配上一碟香醋,便再不需要什么添頭,已是極美。

    長大后,更喜鮮味;小時候,卻覺得甜最無以倫比。

    現在幾乎每家飯店都有南瓜餅、南瓜粑粑,也是我小時候過年的保留節目。

    我不喜歡外面買的南瓜粑粑里的紫芋餡,它破壞了我的習慣,太膩人、不般配。

    有時候我真覺得“大道至簡”在食物重搓五味中體現到極致,至簡的酸甜苦辣咸才能讓人百吃不厭。食不厭精、燴不厭細雖使人一時享受,卻不如粗糙食物可以長久相伴、回味悠長。

    自家做的南瓜粑粑只是將南瓜煮的稀爛,以作和面之用。或輕攏慢捻、或急揉重搓,把白面與南瓜融為一體、相輔相成。

    此為清淡。

    用手隨意將面捏成餅狀,丟下油鍋——噼里啪啦、油星四射,不過一會兒,餅就金黃璀璨、恍如明星。

    此為濃烈。

    外皮焦脆、內里清甜。

    離開家鄉后很久沒有再吃過南瓜粑粑,再提起來的時候不覺心中悵然。但那依然是我心中最好的面食,添一分則多、短一分則少,在記憶的溫藏里變得更溫潤醇厚。

    食者,味也。

    食物是最本源的欲望,但已超脫其本意,在生活的洪流中不緊不慢、細細浸潤地流淌。

    或者對于人來說,食物已經是生活、是回憶、是生命、是一種追逐……

    在此間,更識人間有真味。


    2018年01月10日

    流浪-榮藝
    又見一年春-張佳琳

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